Inconveniently Different
My trip this week is in the contentious region of Xinjiang, which you may have heard about in the news.
I live in China, where it’s not possible to have an open public discussion about these things. But here’s what I will say.
I believe to my core that a society should not be judged on how it treats its majority. That’s actually the easy part. A society should be judged on how it treats those who are most ‘inconveniently different’ to the majority.
Maybe that’s the Aboriginals in Australia; the Roma (gypsies) in Eastern Europe; the Rohingya in Myanmar; the Kurds in Turkey; the list goes on and on, and there’s one in your society too. You could even argue that the Trans Rights and the Black Lives Matter movements belong in this same awkwardly named category.
Please take a moment to think about the most ‘inconveniently different’ person near you. And in the meantime, here’s a photo I took today of a cute Uighur boy playing with a bucket. 👦🏻🪣
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15 Years and an International Border
In 2006 I was in Tajikistan, travelling on the Pamir Highway as part of a 2-month trip through Central Asia.
This week a group of us have flown to the far West of China to travel down the Karakoram Highway, which hugs the border with Tajikistan on its way to Pakistan.
There are 15 years and an international border separating these two photos. But otherwise... not much difference!
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Defeated, Deflated and Depressed
These last two weeks have been a struggle.
I need to submit the draft of my masters thesis next week, but I have been feeling totally defeated 🥊, deflated 🎈 and depressed 💔.
Luckily a Valentine’s Day change of scenery has helped to salvage a little sliver of sanity.
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Don't Judge a Passport by its Cover
While always mindful of the doors it has opened, I have never defined my identity by the passport I carry. And I’m definitely not going to start now.
Yes, I’ve lived in Asia for 17 years. Yes, my passport has recently changed colour. But the blood that runs through my veins is, and always will be, European.
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Mosaic of China Season 02 Begins
I spend most of my time either a) scuttling between coffee shops and a tiny recording studio 🦀 or b) holed up at home, editing audio in my loungewear. 🦨
So it was lovely to bring together 100 people to celebrate the upcoming launch of the new season of the Mosaic of China podcast. A huge thanks to everyone who came, you have made this project come to life. 🥂🥰
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The New Normal in Shanghai
I’m conscious that for some people, I’m the only person they know on the ground in China. It’s been a while since I posted anything about the pandemic situation here. So here’s a quick update from today, October 21st 2020.
At this point we have avoided a large-scale second wave. But there are still localised sporadic outbreaks, after which that particular area goes back into a mini-lockdown. Testing, contact-tracing, the works. Right now there’s one in the city of Qingdao, a city on the Northeastern seaboard. During this period, anyone traveling back from a newly infected area goes into quarantine again. But all the while, the entire rest of the country continues as normal. And after a couple of weeks, the city comes out of lockdown and rejoins the rest of the country.
“Normal” feels pretty normal at this point in Shanghai. Many people still wear masks, but mainly as a courtesy. They’re only mandatory on public transport, at airports, and in other places where people might congregate in larger numbers. I never leave the house without at least having one in my pocket. It’s the same story with the health tracker on our phones, we’re always ready to show the code when asked, but these instances are getting rarer. Some buildings still take your temperature before allowing you to enter, but again it isn’t mandatory across the board. Most places are back to 100% occupancy.
Like everywhere else, we don’t know what tomorrow will bring. But this is a quick snapshot of life in Shanghai right now.
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Fishscale Clouds
A beautiful morning sky. But according to the phrase《鱼鳞云，雨淋淋》these ‘fishscale’ clouds mean... a typhoon is on its way.
I have also found out that this is called ‘mackerel sky’ and ‘buttermilk sky’. In France it’s ‘ciel moutonné’ (fleecy sky); in Spain ‘cielo empedrado’ (cobbled sky); in Germany ‘Schäfchenwolken’ (sheep clouds), and in Italy ‘pecorelle’ (like little sheep).
For the Instagram version, see here.
The Yin and Yang of Shangri-La
“Shangri-La” is two things.
One is a mythical Himalayan utopia invented by a British author in the 1930s, designed to evoke the exoticism of the Orient.
The other is here, a real place in the Tibetan part of Yunnan province. It was formerly called Zhōngdiàn (中甸) and its name was changed to Shangri-La in 2014 to promote tourism.
I’m not sure why this was needed, seeing as it is home to Sungtseling: a Buddhist monastery built in 1679, and a cousin to the Potala Palace in Lhasa.
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Ambivalence in Yunnan
Good news: There are relatively few cases of COVID-19 in China. 😃
Bad news: the borders are still closed for returning foreigners, so we‘re basically trapped here. ☹️
Good news: China is a big place, so we were able to take a 4-hour flight from Shanghai and still remain within the country. 😃
Bad news: the weather forecast for the next week here in Yunnan Province is solid rain. ☹️
Good news: at least it was dry enough to take this photo in Dali old town. 😃☹️😃☹️🤯
My First Post-Lockdown Haircut
Life in Shanghai is slowly returning to something nearer “normal”. I just had my first haircut in 6 weeks, in a salon that was allowed to accept 3 customers at a time, for quick 30-minute cuts.
Meanwhile, the rest of the world is panic-buying toilet paper and stealing hand-sanitiser from hospitals. 🤷♂️
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Good News, It’s Severe Inconvenience and Economic Injury
THE POSITIVE NEWS. It has been around 7 weeks since the coronavirus came to Shanghai, and now we’re approaching something nearer “normal”. People are slowly being allowed to return back from their hometowns, and return to work.
THE REALITY CHECK. This has only been possible because of strict adherence to the rules of social distancing. No panicking, but at the same time, no cutting corners. A period of severe inconvenience and economic injury has been a small price to pay to be in this situation today.
A HOPEFUL CONCLUSION? The world can point to China’s relative lack of openness and directness for mishandling the outbreak. And China can point to the world’s relative lack of competence and discipline for mishandling its containment. I’ve given up on the hope that global threats like this will force all sides to transcend their hard-wired tribal mentality. But my remaining hope is that at least both sides can learn from each other’s strengths and mitigate their weaknesses.
A Fundamental Aspect of Life in China
The Coronavirus has brought China’s full-speed economy temporarily screeching to a halt. But it hasn’t changed one fundamental aspect of modern life in China:
The adaptability of its people.
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Small Businesses in a Crisis
In a crisis, small businesses face the biggest challenges. But also the biggest opportunities.
I remember co-founding my headhunting company in Singapore in the middle of the global financial crisis in 2008. It was tough, no question about it. But while all of our larger competitors were turning inward and focusing on damage control, we were small and nimble enough to do the opposite. We continually reached out to our external stakeholders. We treated them as human beings, showing genuine solidarity and compassion. And while we hemorrhaged cash along with everyone else, we also built a level of trust and goodwill that endured for many years into the recovery.
Today, I received this surprise care package from Jessica Gleeson at the skincare company BrighterBeauty. It includes skin protection, face masks, protective gloves, home-baked cookies and some light reading.
That’s how you do it.
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Mindset is Everything
The situation in China continues to be affected by strict policies of self-confinement. In Shanghai today, getting into most buildings and residential estates requires you to wear a mask, and submit yourself to temperature checks. This photo was taken by The New York Times contributor Rebecca Kanthor at the end of my 小区 lane in Shanghai, where the gates have now been locked, and only residents can enter and exit.
As brutal as this sounds, I don’t feel under siege. And as inconvenient as these restrictions are, I don’t find them stressful. I find them comforting. There’s a stoicism in my community of Chinese neighbours that is very calming. And everyday changes to regulations are being superbly well-organised and communicated.
It makes me feel that China and the Chinese people are on top of this. And it makes me feel that mindset is everything.
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The Humanity of Shanghai
And so we’re back in Shanghai.
I just walked down our street to buy some milk, and as expected the place was deserted. But our 85-year-old neighbour climbed up the steps to our apartment to welcome us home; I had a lovely conversation with the street cleaner about whether I knew who had lost a glove she had found; and the lady at the grocery store, who never usually gives me more than a grimace, today flashed me a smile. (Well, I guessed it was a smile from behind her mask. Maybe it was just a larger grimace.)
This is my first morning back since returning from the Chinese New Year holidays. But already I am feeling the humanity of Shanghai like never before. Here’s hoping that we all don’t forget this too quickly once things return to normal.
Biscuits For Everyone!
One of these is a photo from today in Niseko. It’s my first time skiing in 4 years.
The second is a video from 4 years ago. I was waking up from heavy sedation after ACL reconstruction surgery, following a dumb accident that happened the last time I went skiing.
It’s good to be back... BISCUITS FOR EVERYONE!!!
